Now, weโ€™re getting somewhere. Iโ€™ve sanded with 90, 120, and 220 grit sandpaper and the wood is starting to come to life.

Some folks donโ€™t like the grey growth rings in holly, and they bleach them out with chlorine or sulfur. I prefer to leave them in.

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Smoother now, and a nicer shape overall.

Iโ€™ve done the first round of sanding in the second pic, but Iโ€™ll have to wait for the wood to dry to do the second round.

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Ok, itโ€™s hollowed out, almost as deep as I want to go. Letโ€™s refine the overall shape a bit more, before we go any deeper.

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Now, Iโ€™ll start hollowing out the inside of the spoon using a hook knife.

Make sure you slice across the grain, especially when youโ€™re getting started.

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There we go! Thatโ€™s a bit more symmetrical and spoon-like.

I always carve spoons from wet wood. Every once and a while one will split as it dries, but itโ€™s so much easier to carve wet wood, itโ€™s worth the risk!

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This is my whittling knife, Iโ€™ve had it since I was about 10. Iโ€™ll use it to begin creating a more refined spoon shape

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Hereโ€™s the roughed out spoon shape, I cut this with a bandsaw.

In a pinch you can make these cuts with a small hatchet or a large knife. But Iโ€™m home, so I have a bandsaw handy.

Next, Iโ€™ll start refining the shape with a whittling knife

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Iโ€™ve cut off a chunk, 9 inches long, with a crosscut saw. Here I split a piece off the side of the log with a hatchet.

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The part of the cutting tool today was played by the, oft overlooked and criminally underrated, Woodmanโ€™s Pal.

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Snapped off, about 5 feet up the trunk, probably that bad snowstorm from a few weeks back. A beautiful holly tree, perfect for spoon carving, about 10 feet from the trailhead. *shrugs*

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